When attending a formal event, different questions come to mind about the right way to dress. The common questions asked include: Is a tailcoat perfect for events after 6:00 pm? Is a tuxedo more formal than a tailcoat? What are the differences between tuxedos and suits?
Knowing answers to these vital dressing etiquette questions can help you make the right decision on what to wear. As you read on, you’ll find the answers to these questions and know when you can wear a morning suit, tuxedo, tailcoat and suit.
Suits
Suits are a necessity for formal events. You can easily don a suit for formal dinners, weddings, job interviews, business meetings, a special first date and special formal events. Depending on how you pair the look, a suit can appear more casual or formal.
How is a suit made?
Men’s suits are available in varying numbers of pieces. The three-piece suit has a waistcoat, pair of trousers and a jacket while the two-piece suit comprises trousers and a jacket
A conventional business suit jacket should be form-fitting, having double or centre vents, breast pockets or convertible flap. The jacket options of the suit include single and double-breasted.
The single-breasted jacket usually has a button in the centre. The buttons could be in three, two or 3-roll-2 button styles. The double-breasted suit has two columns of buttons. The number of buttons usually depends on the suit’s construction, but the most common is 4 x 2 and 6 x 2 construction.
The jacket’s shoulder should lie flat to give a good fitting, and the seam on the shoulder should have an equal length with the bone under it, meeting the sleeves where the arm meets the shoulder. The trousers should have a flat, pleated, or mid-rise front in a slightly tapered or slim-straight silhouette that meets below your ankle.
The suit of a business jacket should be fuse constructed, half-canvas, canvas constructed in the front and chest to hold the jacket’s shape with the lightly padded and structured shoulders. With this construction, the garment will fit better, making it more comfortable when worn.
Common suit fabrics due to their versatility include linen, cotton, silk, cashmere, blends, and wool (flannel, worsted and merino).
How to combine a suit
Shirts and accessories paired with a suit are important, and they make suits a versatile option. Blue, tinted and white shirts are safer options, but you can go creative, opting for a shirt with checks, patterns or seasonal prints. Ensure you use good-looking accessories such as a trendy pocket square or tie and shoes.
Do’s for suits
- The tie shouldn’t be overly skinny or small, high or wide. Ensure the tie and your collar fit perfectly
- A buttoned-up suit jacket should be form-fitting but not too tight that it makes an X shape
- Keep your suits in a suit hanger when you hang them up to ensure the shoulder remains intact
- About half an inch of your shirt cuff should be visible from the cuff of your jacket
Don’ts for suits
- Don’t dry clean the suit too often because chemicals used during dry cleaning can make the suit wear out.
- The trousers shouldn’t cover most of your shoes
- Wear overly bold colours or patterns
Tuxedo
A tailored tuxedo in London makes any man look sharp and sophisticated. They are the sole option when attending a gala or given a black-tie dress code for a formal event.
How are tuxedos made?
The principal difference between a tuxedo and a suit is the satin lapels. Although tuxedos can have notch lapels, they give a more casual loop and are primarily for sports coats and suits. A classic dinner jacket has either a formal shawl or a peak lapel.
Tuxedo is also known as dinner suit and black tie, but avoid pairing a bow tie with a black suit. Suits are different from tuxedos, and wearing tuxedos are basically for more formal events.
A black-tie dress has specific guidelines that make the outfit look great. Classic tuxedos are either midnight blue or black. The tuxedo is an after-dark formal outfit and should be worn in flattering colours for evening functions.
How to combine a tuxedo
You can pair your tuxedo with a dress shirt with formal collar options such as Spread and Wingtip collar. French cuffs are a good option, especially with stylish cufflinks. The shirt’s placket (the point it buttons up) can be covered, giving a more formal look, or you can use tux studs that compliment or match the cufflinks.
The bow tie option is usually silk to match the jacket’s lapels, but knit silk, silk twill or silk satin are also good options. Ensure you use a low cut vest (waistcoat) or cummerbund to cover your waistband. Cap toe or patent black are options for shoes when wearing a tux.
Do’s for tuxedo
- Choose a jacket with jetted pockets because it gives a more formal look than jackets with a flap
- Opt for a vent-less single-breasted, one-button jacket with a shawl collar or peaked lapels
- Wear trousers that take braces instead of belts. Belts are not good for a formal event
- Wear a waistcoat if your jacket has cummerbund with shawl collars or peaked lapels
- Opt for white or black braces with matching coloured ends instead of leather
- Use a white shirt with a regular French or Italian collar or a winged collar suitable for bow ties. Shirts with pique or pleated fronts are also a good option
- Line the tux with satin facings. The pockets, pants side seams, and lapels can have your desired material
- Choose black knee-high socks, which are generally wool work, thin cotton or silk
Don’ts for tuxedo
- Customise pants with pleats or cuffs
- Use flap pockets. Flaps are better for a business suit
- You can wear smoking for a wedding or event taking place before 6:00 pm
- May wear a belt with a tuxedo
- Two or three-button single-breasted tuxedo with notched lapels
- Wear a necktie
- Place the cummerbund around your waist with the pleats facing downwards. The pleats should face up as their main purpose was for holding belts when trousers had no pockets
Morning suits
A morning suit is also known as a morning coat or morning dress. It is the formal male clothing that depicts elegance. Morning suits are the most famous formal day dress, and the jacket is usually called morning coat. The morning suit is the traditional male attire for formal memorial services, weddings, certain formal functions and daytime events.
How is a morning suit made?
The morning suit is single-breasted with a link closure, common for some dinner jackets or has one button with pointed lapels. It may have silk piping on the lapel and coat edges. The primary distinguishing factor of morning suit from other body coats is the cutaway skirt that creates a curve from the waist to hem
Morning suits are the most formal body coat and the most common, featuring a cutaway.
How to combine a morning suit
You can wear a morning suit with double cuffs, a white turned-down collar and cufflinks. The common colour for a morning suit is pale yellow-brown, blue and grey. It could be single or double-breasted and can be paired with a silk tie. You may decide to use a tie pin to add extra elegance to the look.
A black or grey top hat with a morning suit is suitable for extra special occasions, and you can use a handkerchief in the left breast pocket with an understated buttonhole.
Do’s for morning suits
- A boutonniere as an alternative to a pocket square
- A pocket watch on the waistcoat
- Have a perfect fit
- Worn for day weddings
- Matching waistcoat, trousers and morning coat
Don’ts for morning suits
- Patent leather shoes
- Non-matching coat
- Fancy waistcoat, particularly backless
Tailcoat
Tailcoats are considered the most elegant outfit for evening events and are usually difficult to pull off since it demands a white tie. A white tie is the most formal dress code and is usually worn for state dinners, formal balls and royals.
How is a tailcoat made?
Tailcoat made with worsted wool designed with intricate details is mainly for special occasions. Tailcoats have silk lapels, covered buttons and a single vent with or without pleating at the back. The waistline of a tailcoat usually mirror’s the wearer’s natural waistline, but unlike other jackets, the front of the coat and white waistcoat end before the waistline. The jacket also has a centre vent that goes up to the waistline, dividing the coat’s skirt into two tails that originally inspired the nickname claw-hammer tailcoat and swallow-tailcoat.
The coat’s tail extends to the bend of the knee into a straight line with a gentle curve at the bottom of the tail.
How to combine a tailcoat
You can pair a tailcoat with a high waist trouser which has double braiding on both sides. A white Marcella shirt, waistcoat and white gloves will complete the look. For shoes, pumps made with shiny and white leather shoes are preferable. Studs and cufflinks are compulsory accessories if you are attending a white tie event.
Do’s for tailcoats
- Wear braces or suspenders under the waistcoat
- Your top hat should either be made from polished black beaver fur or black fur
Don’ts for tailcoats
- Expose the waistband or wear bands for an evening wear
- Wear fake boutonnieres
- Slippers shoes that have bows
- Yellow gold coloured accessories since it doesn’t match with a white tie outfit
For your made to measure suits in London, visit Bespoke Suits today or call 020 7183 2372 to schedule an appointment with our tailor.